Cats from Molyvos {Lesbos}

I had heard the absolute best things about Molyvos on Lesbos island in Greece. Everyone that I knew who had gone absolutely love it. Once I'd been, I could totally understand the love. It’s almost hard to describe, but it certainly is a special little place, and I can see why people go back year after year.

It is not difficult to fall in love with this little seaside town, where the water laps gently against the harbor walls, where narrow and winding cobbled streets stretch upward toward a Byzantine castle, and where many, many cats await you around every corner.

Molyvos (also called Mythimna) is easiest one of the nicest places to go in Greece as a whole.

Molyvos is built on a hillside, in the north of Lesbos island. Once you reach the top, crowned with the castle, you'll be rewarded with panoramic views of Molyvos, the Aegean Sea, and beyond to the coast of Turkey.

Molyvos castle can be visited between 8 am and 3 pm, except Mondays. A ticket costs two euros, and you'll have to get one at the booth near the entrance where this little guy is keeping guards.

Although Molyvos is located near the sea, its pebble beach is small and not the prettiest of Lesbos. Yet it is an organized beach with umbrellas, sunbeds, and lots of tavernas to get refreshments and food.

The true beauty of Molyvos, however, lies in its old town, its castle, and the harbor.

The way up to Molyvos castle is a labyrinth of old cobbled alleyways winding through courtyards, balconies, and clustered stone homes adorned with wooden window frames and brown/red shutters. The orange roof tiles sparkle in the sun, and help provide Molyvos its magical look and feel.

Time seems to be standing still in Molyvos, and the village has hardly changed over the last few decades. Many of the stone houses date from the late 18th century and have been listed as protected monuments. While meandering through the streets, you may even encounter the occasional public phone booth.

These winding alleys are mainly inhabited by locals. The village comes alive at night, when many Greeks can be found having a lively chat with their neighbors on the street outside their homes. Since the daytime heat has fallen by now, this is also the time when the neighborhood cats come out, and there will be way more felines than you can count.

Molyvos is small and can easily be explored by foot. After you've walked around the traditional alleys and explored the medieval castle, it's time to end the day in beauty at one of the many restaurants Molyvos has to offer.

An excellent choice would be the restaurant Tropicana, located near a cozy square, right above the harbor. The traditional food here is excellent. A bonus are the large number of cats working their charm on the tourists, in the hopes of getting a share in their meals. The customers of Tropicana are obviously generous, because several of the cats are "slightly" overweight.

Another spot where you have to eat at least once during your trip is along the picturesque harbor of Molyvos. The most recommended restaurants here are Octopus and The Captain's Platter. 

The harbor, too, is teeming with hungry ferals. Unfortunately, the animals here aren't always in good condition. Many of them are limping and sick. It makes one wonder what the owners of the restaurants do to the poor cats when the tourists aren't watching.

It's the only low point of an otherwise idyllic and unspoiled destination.

Explore other must-see destinations on Lesbos island:

Ypsilou Monastery

Petra

Skala Sykaminia

Text and photos by Vanessa Morgan