Portovenere, Italy: exploring the Gulf of Poets (and cats)
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Portovenere is a picturesque little town with a charming small port in the Ligurian region in the northwest of Italy. It’s part of what is often referred to as the Gulf of Poets, because it was the favorite destination of such writers as Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, D.H. Lawrence, George Sand, Henry Miller, and Virginia Woolf.

Just like the nearby Cinque Terre, the houses of Porto Venere are a colorful mix of pinks, yellows, and blues. It’s a joy to explore the small alleyways where the locals live.

Many of the inhabitants of Portovenere have cats. They treat them really well, unlike in many other towns in Italy where cats are often neglected. But in Portovenere, no matter which alley you turn into, there’s almost always a happy cat around the corner to greet you.

There are instances when they display friendliness, welcoming your touch, while in other scenarios, they swiftly retreat as you approach. However, in most situations, they prefer to stay poised in their chosen spot, observing those who pass by with a blend of curiosity and indifference that embodies the essence of feline nature.

 

Let’s meet the poets and cats of Portovenere

Porto Venere

The Gulf of Poets

Portovenere holds a significant place in literary history, having been a favored destination for renowned writers such as Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, D.H. Lawrence, George Sand, Henry Miller, and Virginia Woolf.

Lord Byron supposedly lived in a cave overlooking the water in Portovenere.

Inextricably linked to Byron’s time in Portovenere is the captivating story of his friendship with Percy Bysshe Shelley, another prominent English poet. The bond between these two literary giants was so strong that Byron would often swim 7.5 kilometers (4.6 miles) to visit Shelley and his wife, Mary Shelley, near Lerici. The shimmering waters of the Ligurian Sea became the backdrop for their intellectual exchanges and discussions of art, literature, and philosophy.

The allure of the Gulf of Poets extended beyond Byron and Shelley. Esteemed writers and thinkers from across Europe sought refuge and inspiration within this captivating region. D.H. Lawrence, the renowned English author, was drawn to its rugged beauty, finding in its landscapes and seascapes the essence of his creative spirit. George Sand, the French writer, was lured by the town’s charm, weaving its essence into her stories of romance and adventure.

Henry Miller, the American novelist, and Virginia Woolf, the celebrated English modernist writer, also found themselves captivated by the ethereal beauty of Portovenere. They too succumbed to its magnetic allure, exploring its winding streets and finding inspiration in its vibrant colors and timeless atmosphere.

Today, as visitors walk the same paths and gaze upon the same coastal vistas that once inspired these literary luminaries, they can’t help but feel a sense of reverence and connection to the past. The echoes of their words and the imprint of their presence still linger, merging with the natural beauty of Portovenere to create an atmosphere that is at once serene and evocative.

Eric catfluffy cat

The Gulf of Cats

Portovenere has earned the endearing moniker “Gulf of Cats,” a term I’ve coined myself, due to the abundance of feline inhabitants that grace the town. While not an official designation, it captures the essence of Portovenere’s unique relationship with its cat population.

The town’s streets, alleys, and squares are often shared with these charming and independent creatures, who have made themselves a part of the local fabric. Their presence adds a touch of whimsy and charm to the already picturesque surroundings, captivating the hearts of residents and visitors alike.

Let’s find out where you can find the most cats during your travels to Portovenere…

Porto Venere catPorto Venere kittens

Portovenere’s Old Town

The Old Town is a treasure trove of architectural delights, where every corner exudes timeless allure. As you wander through the labyrinthine streets, you’ll be surrounded by centuries-old stone facades and picturesque alleys.

One of the prominent landmarks in the historic center is the awe-inspiring Church of St. Peter. This majestic structure stands as a testament to the town’s rich heritage. Admire the intricate details adorning the facade, marvel at the grandeur of the interior, and soak in the spiritual ambiance that permeates the sacred space.

Another jewel nestled within the Old Town is the magnificent Doria Castle. Perched on a cliff, the castle offers panoramic views of Portovenere and the Ligurian coastline. As you explore its ancient walls and towers, you’ll feel the weight of history and gain insight into the strategic importance of this fortress.

But to me, the Old Town isn’t just about famous landmarks; it’s about embracing the essence of the life of the inhabitants of Portovenere. The town itself is not very large, covering an area of approximately 2.5 square kilometers (1 square mile). Its population is around 3,500 people, and many of these residents have chosen to reside in the Old Town, which is primarily residential.

Portovenere, like many small towns in Italy, does tend to have a population that skews towards an older demographic. They are all very kind and welcoming. And many of them have pets.

On Via A. Colonna 13, for example, you’ll find a one-year-old white cat called Frida. She adores tourists and comes over for cuddles whenever someone approaches (her owners say she’s way friendlier with tourists than with them). She only comes out at night and walks on a leash attached to a cable that runs the length of the street. Apparently, she escapes without a leash, and because she’s deaf, she might get herself into trouble. Chances are you’ll instantly fall in love with little Frida.

eric fridaEric Frida

Holiday home on Via Vittoria 12

Another “regular” of the Old Town  is the tabby that guards an AirBnB situated on Via Vittoria 12 (this was my temporary residence in Portovenere). She’s constantly outside, sleeping on the cushions next to the front door or next to the many plants that adorn the porch. Not a single tourist passes by without giving this cat a good ruffle.

AirBnB catsPorto Venere AirBnBAirBnB catcat back porto venere view from room huiskatPortovenere 

Shops

Even the shops have (well-fed) cats. As you stroll through the narrow streets, perusing the various shops and boutiques, it’s not uncommon to be greeted by the sight of a contented shop cat lounging by the doorway or playfully observing the passers-by.

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porto venere souvenir shopporto venere shop

Trattoria Tre Torri

The only cat of Portovenere that seems to be less fortunate is an elderly white cat that often visits the trattoria Tre Torri in search of a morsel of food from the kind-hearted visitors. Despite its less fortunate circumstances, this resilient cat exudes a gentle spirit. Its weathered coat reveals the marks of a life well-lived, while its eyes tell tales of the challenges he faced over the years.

trattoria tre torri

Are cats protected in Italy?

Yes, cats in Italy are protected by law. Italy has specific legislation to safeguard animals, including cats. The main law that provides protection for animals in Italy is the “Codice della Strada” (Highway Code) and the “Legge Quadro n. 281/1991” (Framework Law No. 281/1991). These laws outline regulations to ensure the welfare and protection of animals, including domestic cats. Additionally, there are regional and local regulations that may vary across different municipalities in Italy. These laws aim to prevent cruelty, mistreatment, and abandonment of animals, including cats, and impose penalties for those who violate these regulations.

 

Porto Venere Venus bar

How to get to Portovenere?

Getting to Portovenere is a bit of a challenge, but the long journey is well-worth it.

By public transport

  1. The closest international airport to Portovenere is the Pisa International Airport (Galileo Galilei Airport).
  2. From the airport, you can take a train or a bus to the nearest train station to Portovenere: La Spezia Centrale, which is well-connected to major Italian cities.
  3. Once you arrive at La Spezia Centrale, you still have to take the bus or ferry to Portovenere. The bus journey takes approximately 30 minutes, while the ferry ride provides a scenic experience along the coast.

By car

If you prefer driving, you can also reach Portovenere by car. The town is accessible via the A12 highway. Please note that parking in Portovenere can be limited, especially during peak tourist seasons, so it’s advisable to check for available parking areas or consider using public transportation.

Once you arrive in Portovenere, you can explore the town on foot, as the historic center is best navigated by walking due to its narrow streets and pedestrian-friendly layout. The town is relatively small, allowing you to easily explore its winding alleys with cats.

 

Porto Venere restaurantcats Porto Venere

Is Portovenere a good base for Cinque Terre?

Portovenere serves as an ideal base for those seeking to explore the Cinque Terre region. The town’s strategic location makes it a convenient starting point for visiting the five charming coastal villages that make up Cinque Terre: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.

By choosing Portovenere as your residence, you can easily access these picturesque towns via regular ferry services that operate along the Ligurian coast.

Here’s a glimpse of the Cinque Terre towns and their connection to Portovenere:

  1. Monterosso al Mare: Located to the north of Porto Venere, Monterosso is the largest and most accessible village in Cinque Terre. The ferry services provide a direct connection between Porto Venere and Monterosso, allowing you to begin your exploration of the region with ease.
  2. Vernazza: Situated south of Monterosso, Vernazza is known for its charming harbor and colorful waterfront houses. You can continue your ferry journey from Monterosso to Vernazza, enjoying the scenic coastal views along the way.
  3. Corniglia: Unlike the other Cinque Terre villages, Corniglia is perched on a cliff, offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Although Corniglia doesn’t have a direct ferry connection, you can reach it by taking a short train ride from any of the neighboring towns, including Monterosso or Vernazza.
  4. Manarola: As you venture further south, you’ll reach Manarola, another captivating village renowned for its picturesque beauty. From Vernazza or Monterosso, you can hop on a ferry that will transport you to Manarola, allowing you to soak in the coastal splendor along the way.
  5. Riomaggiore: The southernmost village of Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore completes the quintet of stunning coastal towns. You can easily access Riomaggiore by ferry, continuing your exploration of the region from Manarola or other neighboring villages.

Porto Venere stairs

Photos: Vanessa Morgan & Eric Valette (photos 3, 4, 7, 8)

Porto Venere cats

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